Dermaplaning might sound like some cool water sport, but it actually refers to the act of shaving the fine hair on your face with a scalpel.

Wait: shaving your face? With a scalpel?

But hear me out. Dermaplaning might sound kooky, but it’s everything your beauty routine has been missing. Firstly, it’s not as dangerous as it sounds and secondly, it’s definitely not the same thing as removing stubble with a Gillette razor. In fact, dermaplaning has long been a red carpet beauty trick, but now it’s becoming increasingly popular among skincare enthusiasts everywhere and can even be done from the comfort of your own home.

How It Works 

Dermaplaning is a form of physical exfoliation. It involves taking a sterile, scalpel-like razor and dragging it across your face to remove dead skin cells and peach fuzz. You can go to an esthetician or do it yourself at home. 

The Benefits of Dermaplaning

• Smoothes the skin. You’ll be amazed at how baby-smooth your skin feels once all the peach fuzz is gone from your face – it’s addictive.

• Brightens the complexion. Dermaplaning leaves your skin looking bright, fresh and glowy because it removes the dull layer of dead cells.

• Makeup applies beautifully. Foundation will glide flawlessly onto your face after dermaplaning, giving you an airbrushed look. 

• Minimizes pores. Dead skin cells can clog your pores and make them appear large. Dermaplaning removes these cells, which means smaller, smoother and more refined pores. 

• Skincare products go further. Peach fuzz and dead skin cells absorb your skincare products, which is a bit of a waste. Removing that top layer allows your skincare products to penetrate more deeply, thus increasing their effectiveness. For more on the skincare products I can’t get enough of, check out this article.

• Can help with acne. The hairs on your face can trap dirt and oil, so removing them helps to reduce the risk of breakouts. 

Is It Right For Me? 

Dermaplaning works for almost everyone but you shouldn’t do it if you’re in the midst of an active breakout, or if you have broken skin on your face. Taking a razor to open sores or irritated skin is only going to make the issue ten times worse and increase the risk of infection. 

How To Do It 

Good news: dermaplaning is pretty low-maintenance. You only need to do it every 3-4 weeks and it takes just a few minutes of your time. Here’s a step-by-step guide on what to do:

Step 1: Buy a Dermaplaning Kit 

The first thing you need to do is buy a dermaplaning kit. It’s best to choose an electric razor because it makes the process easier, faster and more effective – think of it like a manual toothbrush vs an electric one.

The kit will come with multiple, single-use blades. Don’t be tempted to reuse your blades – it’s unhygienic and you just can’t get good results from a dull blade. Refill packs are available for when you run out. Here are a couple of kits I really like:

The Michael Todd Sonicsmooth is one of the best dermaplaning tools out there. It’s a spa-grade product that allows you to get premium results from the comfort of your own bathroom. There are three different settings so that you can start slow and increase the speed as you grow more confident. The long battery life makes this device perfect for those who travel a lot and the kit comes with a pre-treatment cleanser and post-treatment lotion. 

The Spa Sciences SIMA Sonic Facial Exfoliation & Hair Removal System is the perfect choice for beauty lovers on a budget. It has three different speeds and comes in three cute colors. 

Step 2: Prep Your Face 

Happily, you don’t need any shaving cream to dermaplane! All you need to do is remove any makeup and cleanse your skin with a gentle product. I’m a big fan of the following cleansers: 

Step 3: Begin Dermaplaning 

Remember to use a brand new razor blade each time you dermaplane your skin. Hold the razor at a 45 degree angle and hold the skin taut. Apply a firm but gentle pressure and shave against the direction of hair growth. Don’t go over the same area more than once and be very careful around your brow area – you don’t want to end up taking a chunk out! I also don’t recommend dermaplaning the under-eye area because the skin is too delicate and you might end up giving yourself a black eye, which will sadly distract from your glowing complexion. 

Step 4: Aftercare 

After dermaplaning, take a cotton pad (bonus points if you opt for eco-friendly reusable ones) and use it to apply your favorite toner to your skin – just make sure it doesn’t contain any exfoliating ingredients like salicylic, glycolic or lactic acid. This will dislodge any dead skin cells or hairs that are still sitting on your face. I like the following toners:

Once your skin’s clean and clear you can apply your usual serums and moisturisers. Use a gentle, hydrating moisturizer and then apply facial sunscreen to protect your baby-soft skin. Here are some of my favorite products to use after dermaplaning my face:

Your skin’s a little vulnerable after dermaplaning, which is nothing to worry about but it’s important to avoid using exfoliating products for at least a week afterwards. Stay away from chlorine for the same amount of time, and try to keep direct sun exposure to a minimum for at least three days. 

FAQs 

When it comes to dermaplaning your face, the same questions crop up time and time again. Here are the ones I’ve heard the most frequently:

Will my hair grow back thicker than before? 

Yes. Dermaplaning your face will give you a full beard. 

Just kidding. It’s a complete myth that any form of shaving makes your hair grow back thicker. Dermaplaning removes the top layer of hair and has no effect on how it grows at the root. I’ve been doing it for years and I haven’t developed a ‘tache yet. 

Will I get stubble?

Dermaplaning definitely won’t give you visible stubble but the hair does feel a little different when it grows back because shaving hair creates blunt ends. However, it’s a pretty negligible difference and I wouldn’t describe it as a big deal. 

Why not just use a regular razor?

Dermaplaning isn’t a regular form of shaving, so a regular razor just won’t cut it (pun fully intended.) Regular razors are designed to remove longer, thicker hairs whilst dermaplaning is aimed towards the soft, downy layer of peach fuzz that sits very close to the skin. It requires a much closer shave. Bodily razors aren’t very effective at removing this downy layer and they certainly aren’t precise enough for the contours of your face. 

Is dermaplaning suitable for sensitive skin?

Dermaplaning is gentle enough for sensitive skin, but bear in mind that everyone’s skin requires a little extra TLC after the process. If you protect your skin with an SPF, avoid chlorine and only use very mild products, you should be fine. 

Now that you’re a total dermaplaning expert, why not check out the hottest Korean beauty brands or learn about integrating retinol into your skincare routine?